500 Tail gear slop

zenmetsu

zenmetsu

Member
Anyone know how to take up gear mesh slop between the autorotation gear and the tail drive gear, as well as the front two umbrella gears in the torque tube setup?

There is a a lot of play in my gears and the instructions mentioned nothing about mesh here. I expect that this slop will be the cause of excessive noise and will factor into the ease of stripping these gears.
 
coolgabsi

coolgabsi

Super Mod & DEAL KING!
If they already have the desired "slop" with the gears not looking like they'll slip.. you are good.

DOnt change or try to change it until its too tight :) You are good..

once in load everything is locked in one position.. too loose is only the issue if you got a chance of the gears slipping. Hold your head and try to gently to turn the tail.. if it doesnt just skip.. you are good.. post a pic oif you can..

If you had none and the tail and head were "LOCKED" together.. then you were looking at worse issues not to mention awful battery times. :)
 
zenmetsu

zenmetsu

Member
The problem with a very loose mesh is that it can increase wear, just like too tight of a mesh. I was easily able to slip 8 strips of paper between the autorotation gear and the tail drive gear. Ick.

I snugged it up a bit by removing a small amount of material from the front of the 8 screw holes that hold the tail block in place, as well as pulling a small amount of material from the 4 slots where the oval shaped keys fit. I was able to gain about 1mm of forward travel and tightened up the mesh considerably. The mesh is by no means tight; I can spin the blades up and they will free spin for a long time.

Now the only source of significant play is in the umbrella gears, but those things are always temperamental. The one on the shaft has a pin through it, so you cannot bring it downward to tighten the mesh. The one that interfaces with the torque tube is free to move, but only the torque tube is applying force to keep the mesh proper. I'd have to either find a way to shim the gear by 0.7mm, or increase the torque tube's length by about that much... or shorten the tail tube. Sure, I could fly it like this, but I am kinda OCD. More into this hobby for the mechanic aspect than the piloting one. :/
 
Tony

Tony

Staff member
The only real way to adjust the TT gears is to put a shim in there to move the gears closer together or farther apart. This will adjust the mesh. The auto gear you are pretty much stuck with unless you find a way to slot the frame and slide the tail boom block forward.

On the 600, the mesh on the TT gears is perfect. It was really tight, but the gear was not pressed into the bearing all the way.
 
zenmetsu

zenmetsu

Member
super bad said:
i have the answer get ride of the EXI crap and put align parts on it
Click to expand...

>.> This *IS* an Align kit.

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks Tony, that is what I ended up doing. I gained about 1mm of forward travel for the tail block, and I only ended up moving it up about 0.7mm. It made a considerable difference in the amount of play.

I should have my servos tomorrow and then I can try getting my swash and tracking sorted. Still need a gyro though, unless I find a way of ramming the GY401 into place. I could just mount it on the bottom plate.
 
Tony

Tony

Staff member
Look into the people that went flybarless and are selling their GP790 for like $60. IT's a killer deal on a great gyro.
 
zenmetsu

zenmetsu

Member
Funny that we had this gyro talk; the Spartan guys over in the UK just got back to me regarding some questions I had. I got hooked up with a pretty good deal and will grab another Quark until their FBL offering is made available. Looks like I'll have an extra Quark gyro when that happens, so I'll probably offer it up for free here on the forum. Now I just gotta wait for snailmail™ to deliver. :D
 
Tony

Tony

Staff member
Quark is a great gyro as you know. There are Align sponsored pilots that will not run Align gyros and will only run Quark's now. I have thought about getting one and sticking it on the 600 with the flybar head just to test them out. I will for sure test out the "crash resistance" of the gyro lmao.
 
zenmetsu

zenmetsu

Member
Yeah, it is small, but man did it ever eliminate the tail wag on my 250. I'm sure that it will work very well on my 500; I've seen people doing some absolutely crazy stuff with them on 700s.

So far mine has survived a fair amount of banging around. I still have a bit of a tail bob when I do a hard pitch pump, but it is pretty minor... the tail just kicks to the right about 10-15 degrees and then immediately swings back to where it was. Probably a delay setting that I can program once I get the USB cable for it.

As for the tail on my 500... I got the gear slop to the point where the tail shaft will only rotate about 20 degrees when the autorotation gear is held fast. I was getting well over 60 degrees of play originally, so I am a happy camper. The tail assembly as a whole has practically zero play compared to my 250, that pitch slider just doesn't move at all. Getting those bushings and screws to the correct tightness and not fouling the plastic and bushings with loctite is quite a challenge though.
 
Tony

Tony

Staff member
If you are in normal mode, that is why it's blowing the tail out a little. The gyro can't compensate fast enough for the torque of the motor. However if you are in idle up with a constant throttle curve, it will not blow out at all.
 
zenmetsu

zenmetsu

Member
That could be it. I still know that the delay can be lowered though the PC link.

If it wasn't for the RCH heli being FBL, I'd gladly donate the extra Quark so that you could compare it to one of the other gyros or something. I'll be keeping my flybar for a while, at least it will let me appreciate the difference once I make the switch.
 
Tony

Tony

Staff member
It would only take about 15 minutes to put a flybar on it. It came with both heads and I thought about doing videos for both.
 
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