FBL Gyro Tail Dynamic in Ikon

[scottwells]

Can someone please explain the tail dynamic in the Ikon advanced settings. I am getting the smallest bounce when I stop on a hard piro... My tail dynamic is at 50 but I am wondering if I can turn it down or up??? and it might help remove some of the bounce???

On the tail dynamic it says that it can help reduce load on TT tails but it does not say to go up or down????

I gain = 27
D gain = 39
P Pre = 40

This is on a 250 pro DFC.

I did my gain by giving as much tail work as I can finding where it wags hard and then backed it off about 5% so it is at 18 on the Ikon..

I am trying to find a way to solve this without buying the DS95i servo.

The heli holds pretty good for my abilities but I am trying to learn all of the dynamics of setting up the helis as well as flying, If anyone can explain the tail dynamic to me a little better that would be great.

Thanks

 

[murankar]

If it's bounces then I would start at the tx gain levels. If your still having bounce then reset the gain back to your starting point and adjust the p gain, if that fails the rest to original value and adjust the I gain. The d gain is the last to adjust.

Normally it's ordered as P I D. I AM still trying to learn how those gains work. I have found a good set up guide on P I D gains but they apply to the ZYX-S gyro.

From what I have read these settings will cause an oscillation effect more than a bounce.

Something else to check would be the acceleration and deceleration of the tail, If that is available. I have also read that this can cause a bounce if they are to high and a lack of holding if to low.

Not sure if this is 100% since I have not fully learned how All this works yet. Someone with more experience should respond.

Sent from my LG-E980 using Forum Runner

 

[pvolcko]

Bounce is just a step removed from oscillation.

Generally if you are getting a bounce back on hard stops that means dial the gain back. But it also depends on what you're after. For highly... Dynamic flight (hard 3d)you will want it to be snappy and so a little bit of bounce (overshoot) is necessary. So long as it isn't "ringing" or oscillating back and forth a few times with less overshoot each time until it settles. The overshoot should be minimal and only once and then settle to stable. For sport and beginning 3d you want no overshoot, no bounce.

I'd agree. Use TX gyro gain to get it as close as possible, only then fiddle with pid settings. Make pid changes only one or two points at a time and only one of p I or d at a time. For the issue you are working on you may actually want to focus on d gain. It controls how aggressively it will soften the approach to a fast coming target value. Higher values will soften it more. Too high and it will deaden both starting a fast pro and stopping (slow to start and slow to stop), perhaps to the point of "chattering" or rippling as it approaches the stop. Too low and it will overshoot more, perhaps uncontrollably.

Pid tuning is science and art. It takes time and attention it detail in the response. I'd really recommend leaving defaults for your model size in place. Maybe select the next lower or higher model size to compensate for overly or under reactive models. You can get in trouble quickly screwing with these settings.

 

[scottwells]

I did notice that in bank 1 (beginner setting) everything seems fine flying and when I go into hover I get a slow oscillation now and then. when I switched into bank 2 (sport) the oscillation is pretty much gone... I have come to the conclusion that either the slight change from beginner to sport has fixed it or I need a better tail servo for the 250 pro dfc. I have read that it is almost impossible to get a perfect tail with the stock servo.

I have not tried bank 3 (3D) yet.