450 Setup Dx9

I have a Blade 450 3D, i tried to use the same setup from a DX-6i on my DX-9 Black edition, i guess it's not strait forward, any help would be appreciated, thanks!
 

Tony

Staff member
I have a few videos on setting up the DX9. Have you watched them. There is a link below to the article page where all the DX9 articles are. The Basic Helicopter Setup article would probably be the most helpful in this case though.

DX9 | Rc-Help Forum
 
I have a few videos on setting up the DX9. Have you watched them. There is a link below to the article page where all the DX9 articles are. The Basic Helicopter Setup article would probably be the most helpful in this case though.

DX9 | Rc-Help Forum
Saw that but because you most of the time use a Trex and not a Blade, that confuse me a little, maybe i should not?
 

Tony

Staff member
Pretty much every single CCPM helicopter is setup the same. You start with your new model in your Tx, once you have that, you move on to centering the servos and setting those servo arms to exactly 90º to the links they are connected to. This will give equal travel in each direction. While still at mid stick, you verify 0º pitch, again at mid stick (50%) and if you are not at 0º, adjust the linkages on the head, not the swash to servo links to achieve 0º at mid stick. From there, go full positive and full negative and check the pitch. If you have more positive than negative then your swash is too high. If you have more negative than positive, then your swash is too low and you need to adjust your servo to swash links accordingly. Then, go to mid stick and do it all over again checking for 0º pitch, then full positive and full negative.

It can be a long process, but it is pretty much the same on all helicopters. Especially those made today. Back in teh day with weird collective rods going through the main shaft, those are a little different, but the blade 450 3d is very similar to the Align kits.

If you do need further help, we are here to assist. Just let us know what you are needing help with and we will jump on the issue.
 
Pretty much every single CCPM helicopter is setup the same. You start with your new model in your Tx, once you have that, you move on to centering the servos and setting those servo arms to exactly 90º to the links they are connected to. This will give equal travel in each direction. While still at mid stick, you verify 0º pitch, again at mid stick (50%) and if you are not at 0º, adjust the linkages on the head, not the swash to servo links to achieve 0º at mid stick. From there, go full positive and full negative and check the pitch. If you have more positive than negative then your swash is too high. If you have more negative than positive, then your swash is too low and you need to adjust your servo to swash links accordingly. Then, go to mid stick and do it all over again checking for 0º pitch, then full positive and full negative.

It can be a long process, but it is pretty much the same on all helicopters. Especially those made today. Back in teh day with weird collective rods going through the main shaft, those are a little different, but the blade 450 3d is very similar to the Align kits.

If you do need further help, we are here to assist. Just let us know what you are needing help with and we will jump on the issue.
I saw some diffences between Dx-6i, Dx-7 and Dx-8 concerning the swash mix? can you explain me that, thanks.
 

Tony

Staff member
Some of them call them the Swashplate, and some call it Swash Mix. If you are referring to where you select 1 servo 90º or 3 servo 120º, the only difference is 1 servo 90º is now called Normal.
 
Ok i think i'm on to something but when i spool it up the tail swing like crazy like if there was no gyro correction??
It' s a G 210 gyro
 

Tony

Staff member
What exactly do you mean by "sway"? Are you talking about it turning in circles? If it is a slow circle, it is likely you didn't setup the gyro menu. Click your roller and scroll down to Gyro. In there it will say Inhibit. Scroll to that and click it and move the switch you want to use to control the gyro gain. I use Switch D. Once you select that, you will be given 3 options. Pos 0 set to +45, Pos 1 set to 0 and Pos 2 set to -45. This will give you all 3 options for setting the tail. Position 0 (or Pos 0) will be your heading hold mode and should be what you always fly in. Before you start flying though, you can flip down into Pos 2 and back up to 0 and it will center your tail blades. Position 1 is so if you have an early style gyro you can set it for NO gyro and you can adjust your tail blade pitch so it stays in the same place when you are flying. This only works on a flat throttle curve though. I fly in normal mode 0 65 65 65 65, but adjust it to suit your flying style.
 
Ok i tried +45 as for pos 0 was doing ok for a few second, good thing it was still on the ground caus it went crazy again, should i change that value ?
 

Tony

Staff member
Your going to have to give me a lot more information. "Going Crazy" can mean so many things in this hobby. Let me know exactly what it is doing, a video would be best.
 
Is it possible to have the exact measure that each arm have, referring to the ones from cervos to swashplate for Blade 450 3D ?
Then i'll be able to level everything up....and check the pitch, thanks, again!
 

Tony

Staff member
I can't find any information on how long those are supposed to be. Best thing to do is follow what I put in post #6 and set it up manually. It will be setup better than it would with any generic settings from a manual because they will never be the same from heli to heli. Something will be different between them. It takes a while to set a helicopter up, but trust me, it is worth the time invested.
 

Cyclone 7

Member
Daniel - follow Tony's well explained and simple advice in Post #6, as he suggests. You can't really go wrong but it does require a lot of patience and trial & error before you find the 'sweet spot'. As a further suggestion that might help, try starting off with the clevis at each end of the servo to swash linkages at 'mid thread' in each case and work from there until you find the right lengths. Don't do anything with the swash to head linkages until you have the swash plate absolutely level and with the guide pin more-or-less halfway up the anti-rotation guide.
 

Cyclone 7

Member
PS - there are no real shortcuts to this part of the set-up but it does become easier and more instinctive with experience. Take the time and effort now to get it right and it will save you an awful lot of trouble, further down the road.
 
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