600 Returning to helis
- Thread starter JohnLitz
- Start date
Geena
Staff member
If you get one of the new Align kits, parts will be readily available. But some of the parts for the older kits, are slowly becoming unobtainium. Heli Direct Helicopter Kits sell Align kits and parts, as well as Amain Hobbies. Electric Powered RC Helicopter Kits, Unassembled, BNF & RTF - AMain Hobbies
As far as FBL systems go.... They all perform great these days. So you really can`t go wrong with any of them. It just depends on what you are wanting to get out of it. If you are fairly new to FBL, I would personally recommend the BeastX. They fly really well, are easy to set up, and don`t require a computer. If you`re using a spektrum transmitter, you can go with the AR7210BX, which is a Spektrum receiver and FBL system in one unit.
As far as FBL systems go.... They all perform great these days. So you really can`t go wrong with any of them. It just depends on what you are wanting to get out of it. If you are fairly new to FBL, I would personally recommend the BeastX. They fly really well, are easy to set up, and don`t require a computer. If you`re using a spektrum transmitter, you can go with the AR7210BX, which is a Spektrum receiver and FBL system in one unit.
Thank you for your response and that sure made things easier for me. I have two helis one is an Align 600 and the other is an old Raptor 50 that still flys great. The align helis is going in a scale fuse which is a MD 500 so I am trying to get the mechanics right prior to the install. I might need a little FBL help along the way so I hope these guys don’t mind some possible redundant questions at times. I’m sure everyone has heard all of the questions I have . Thanks again for the response and I’m looking forward to rc helis again thanks to you guys.
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to the site John. In here there's no such thing as redundant or dumb questions. So don't be afraid to ask. Like Geena mention," We're all happy to help all we can" 
.I am currently working on my 600 scale 500MD. I assembled it using microbeast 3.0 as it’s an older unit and yet unused. After completing I took the helis out for its maiden and it all worked well. I had to take the microbeast switch it from sport mode to normal mode as the inputs were a bit twitchy for scale flight. After the correction it was still a bit twitchy but much better. My question is the next option is where you turn off the presets and configure the microbeast in a more custom mode where expo can be used.
After reading about it I thought I would ask and see if anyone had any experience in this as I am not sure what the outcome will be and don’t want to chance it. Any help on this would be great. Thanks guys
After reading about it I thought I would ask and see if anyone had any experience in this as I am not sure what the outcome will be and don’t want to chance it. Any help on this would be great. Thanks guys
fran11784
Goblin 380 Supporter
V3 is quite old but I believe its the same. I had a similar feeling on my Bell 47. If you have the cable you can do it in studioX app. If not you would change the control behavior to "transmitter" There you can set the expo to your liking. The nice thing about the studiox app is you can change the presets a bit without haveing to mess with the transmitter. Keep in mind in the preset "normal mode," the expo is set to 50 for cyclic and 65 for rudder If I remember right which I thought was alot. But you can mess with the duel rates as well.
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The journey continues, the microbeast setup went well and after installing the frame of the helis into the Md500 fuse I did a mock up and tried to fly it to see how it handled with the fuse in place. I can say all went well as the only issue I had was the helis wouldn’t maintain altitude it wanted to move up and down where it didn’t do that before. I am wondering with the extra weight maybe it effected the head speed causing this movement. I’m not sure how to check the head speed to know if it possibly changed so any help would be great. Thanks
fran11784
Goblin 380 Supporter
Humm that's interesting, what speed controller are you using in there and are you using a governor? If all you did was put the mechanics in the fuse then nothing should have changed. The wind will effect in more now because there's more surface to blow on. Was it breezy?
fran11784
Goblin 380 Supporter
Hi John, as far as head speed you can use a hand held tachometer. I have the magic mirror. There are others out there now but it takes two people, one to hover the heli and one to check it. Generally people don't worry too much about head speed on scale ships. For me, I use the castle governor, (in the ESC) on my scale helis. If you have a good ear you can tell if its too high. Of course on scale we tend to want to slow it down for the scale effect.
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Thank you for your response and I am using a castle esc so maybe it has a gov I sure will check and see. This last flight kinda puzzled me with this type of ballooning effect as I thought it might be head speed difference but as discussed in the last post it might have been the wind . Thanks again and I’m sure I’ll have many more questions.
RandyDSok
Well-Known Member
Fun and easy ... lol
The scale portion of your inquiry is really what increases the complexity. I don't mean by making it harder, but by the number of possible solutions you have to chose from to achieve the result you want. If you were just after lighting up the fuse in general, you could simplify it somewhat. Instead, for a scale result, you need to consider the number of LED's you need to match a scale solution, how many volts those will require in each circuit and how many circuits to duplicate the scale results you are after. Adding blinking into the mix for each circuit will complicate it further but there are a lot of various small timing circuits that could address it... it's just which one of the many to choose from is what complicates it.
A simpler solution that isn't completely scale would likely be easier. Just a single circuit for all of the LED's you need for the look and placement you want and leave out the blinking portion. This would just requiring knowing the end voltage you need and a bit of wiring to place the LED's where you'd like.
The scale portion of your inquiry is really what increases the complexity. I don't mean by making it harder, but by the number of possible solutions you have to chose from to achieve the result you want. If you were just after lighting up the fuse in general, you could simplify it somewhat. Instead, for a scale result, you need to consider the number of LED's you need to match a scale solution, how many volts those will require in each circuit and how many circuits to duplicate the scale results you are after. Adding blinking into the mix for each circuit will complicate it further but there are a lot of various small timing circuits that could address it... it's just which one of the many to choose from is what complicates it.
A simpler solution that isn't completely scale would likely be easier. Just a single circuit for all of the LED's you need for the look and placement you want and leave out the blinking portion. This would just requiring knowing the end voltage you need and a bit of wiring to place the LED's where you'd like.