Trucks My Adventures With T-Maxx 3.3

[bigone5500]

So far I have been breaking in my engine. I have been going by the book. My temps are not as low as I think they might need to be. As Tony said in another thread, somewhere around 170 is good but in the book they mention of temps around 220. I'm going to have to do some digging around and asking questions to figure out this thing. As I was on my 5th tank in the break in period, my slipper clutch came apart. One of the pads is gone, another is half way there and the third is still intact. I don't know why it came apart but will be contacting traxxas to see if this can be a warranty claim. Maybe it's my fault. I don't know. But what I do know is this thing is super fun! I love it and do not regret this purchase in the least. I can only wish that I had a track to drive it on. I have said in another thread that I had no desire to race it but man, oh man...that could be fun.

I'll keep this thread update with more incredible adventures as they unfold!

 

[bigone5500]

My first mod...sorta, you gotta start somewhere. The hitch pins are a pain to get off the body so I bent them. Looks better too in my opinion.

 

[bigone5500]

So I've been researching the best way to maintain the engine after running. I see one guy uses WD-40 as after run oil. Is this the best way to keep moisture out of the motor? I bought some after run oil to use but when it's gone, I'll use WD40 if it's ok as it's cheaper.

 

[Tony]

Never tried it so not sure.

 

[bigone5500]

So I contacted traxxas about my slipper clutch and they sent me a new one. Installation is simple and easy. You will need to remove the tank and engine. The wrench that comes with the T-Maxx is used to remove the nut from the shaft. There are two belleville washers on the shaft situated so the concave (cupped) sides face each other. Remove those and continue to remove the spur gear, old pads if any, and the friction disc. You can also remove the slipper pressure plate and pin. The slipper rebuild kit comes with a new pin so I went ahead and installed it. The pressure plate is reinstalled with the pin mating into the slots on the plate. Next the steel disc goes on the pressuer plate. Make sure the four pins on the plate line up with the grooves on the disc. Install the pads on the spur gear assembly and slide it onto the shaft. Install the two belleville washers onto the shaft making sure the cupped sides are towards each other. Install the new locking nut onto the shaft and tighten all the way, then back off the nut 1/4 turn. Reinstall the engine and tank making sure the gears are properly meshed.

You're done.

Installation and removal method.


Old parts.


New parts.


Belleville washers. (cupped sides are facing up)

New pads installed.


Pressure plate pin.


Pressure plate.


Steel disc mounted on pressure plate.

 

[bigone5500]

So I won't be finishing the break-in of my motor today. I watched a video on youtube from traxxas and the space needed for tank 5 is tremendous. I know of a vacant parking lot that is perfect for this. I will do it tomorrow.

 

[bigone5500]

Thinking about my last post, the wrench used for the glow plug is probably not the best choice for installation of these components. Use an 8mm wrench such as the traxxas part no. 5478 or 1/4" drive ratchet with 8mm shallow socket. I'll be doing it that way from now on.

 

[Tony]

I use a 5/16" craftsman nut driver for glow plugs. But the one they included should have a spring to hold the glow plug so that it doesn't fall and you don't have to tilt the truck up to get the plug out.

 

[bigone5500]

I use a 5/16" craftsman nut driver for glow plugs. But the one they included should have a spring to hold the glow plug so that it doesn't fall and you don't have to tilt the truck up to get the plug out.

Maybe it can be magnetized to hold the plug?

 

[Tony]

I just tilt the truck that way the copper washer comes out with it lol.

 

[bigone5500]

@Tony Here's you a video. Please don't laugh...

I love how this thing shifts. One thing is, as you will notice in the video, is sometimes it won't shift. If I get on the accelerator fast it shifts quickly.

 

[Tony]

If you roll into it and it doesn't shift, just quickly let off and get back on the throttle and it should shift.

 

[bigone5500]

I just wish I had recorded the flip(s) I did...4 of them in a row. Not a scratch on the shell.

 

[bigone5500]

I do have either a bad shaft or bearing on my front right wheel. I think it was caused from driving it in tall grass. I cleaned lots of it from the wheels.

Lesson learned.

 

[bigone5500]

So I ran my truck yesterday and noticed that there is unburned fuel coming from the exhaust. It also is melting the protective sleeve on the silicone tube from the exhaust. I checked the temp after a few minutes of running and the MicroTemp MT250 read 300. I ran it hard for a full tank and after it ran out of gas, it showed only about 220. Maybe it had time to cool before I took a measurement. I have never seen this thing run under 220. Usually higher temps.

 

[Tony]

You will always get unburt fuel out of the exhaust. And 300 is high. And also yes, the head cools off very fast.

 

[bigone5500]

I have not adjusted the carb since breaking in the engine. Should this be done?

Here is the temp gun I used. It may not be the best one for this purpose.

Micro Temp MT-250 Digital Infrared Temp Gun | HorizonHobby

 

[Tony]

It should work. And if you are getting that hot, I would add fuel to the top end.

 

[bigone5500]

Do you mean richen?

 

[Tony]

yes.