I purchased a kit for a Tarot 450 Pro without doing the proper research, and following a YouTube guide, I was able to assemble the frame and part of the electronics. I am having trouble finding someone to help me with this, and I was wondering if anybody has knowledge on this so I can finish it. Thank you!
450 Help With Tarot 450 Pro
- Thread starter skelly87
- Start date
I am just having trouble with certain aspects of the servos and such, and in the kit, they did not ship the proper parts, so I’m not sure where to go from there.
Smoggie
Well-Known Member
The Tarot is a 'clone' copy of the Trex 450 and although Tarot is one of the better clones, quality issues are far from unknown.
Other than pointing you to the manual it's hard to offer help without knowing the precise details of the problems you are having. I'd be happy for you to call round my place and we could get it sorted out but as we are over 3000 miles apart that's probably not going to happen.
The problems might seem insurmountable but I'm sure that if you can just break it down one small issue at a time (with photos if possible) then I or someone here will be able to help.
Other than pointing you to the manual it's hard to offer help without knowing the precise details of the problems you are having. I'd be happy for you to call round my place and we could get it sorted out but as we are over 3000 miles apart that's probably not going to happen.
The problems might seem insurmountable but I'm sure that if you can just break it down one small issue at a time (with photos if possible) then I or someone here will be able to help.
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Smoggie
Well-Known Member
Ok...
So you have to first centre the servo. Do this by powering it up connected to a receiver or by using a servo tester if you have one. Now take the arm off and move it to the spline that is closest to the desired position. It probably wont be exactly centre so that final adjustment has to be made either in the Tx sub-trim menu (for a flybar heli) or the flybarless controller (for a flybarless heli).
To get the ball to fit the arm you will need to drill out the hole in the arm. Only drill the one you need otherwise the arm will be weakened too much. The holes in the arms are usually too small for the threads on ball links because the arms are designed to be also suitable for airplanes which use thin wire ends on their pushrods. Use a spot of Loctite on the nut which retains the ball but dont overtighten the nut or it will split the plastic of the arm.
So you have to first centre the servo. Do this by powering it up connected to a receiver or by using a servo tester if you have one. Now take the arm off and move it to the spline that is closest to the desired position. It probably wont be exactly centre so that final adjustment has to be made either in the Tx sub-trim menu (for a flybar heli) or the flybarless controller (for a flybarless heli).
To get the ball to fit the arm you will need to drill out the hole in the arm. Only drill the one you need otherwise the arm will be weakened too much. The holes in the arms are usually too small for the threads on ball links because the arms are designed to be also suitable for airplanes which use thin wire ends on their pushrods. Use a spot of Loctite on the nut which retains the ball but dont overtighten the nut or it will split the plastic of the arm.
Thank you so much for your help! I assembled all of the electronics with the motor in place and when I bound the transmitter and tested the servos and motor, the esc got very hot and melted some of the covering plastic. I’m not sure why this happened, and I don’t want to proceed until I know how to do this properly.
Smoggie
Well-Known Member
What make model of ESC?
Usually that would happen on cheaper types of ESC (the type with a linear BEC*) when the servos are stalled so the servos draw high current from the BEC and cause it to overheat. When you power up the servos you must make sure that the arms of the servo dont mechanically bind. The safest way to ensure this is to remove the arms prior to powering up. If it got hot enough to melt plastic then the ESC and possibly the servos may be damaged, give them a test when you next power up.
When setting the heli up for safety reasons you should disconnect at least two of the three ESC to motor wires to prevent accidental power up of the motor.
* Note: BEC = 'Battery Eliminator Circuit'. it's the part of the ESC that supplies low voltage power to the servos and receiver.
Usually that would happen on cheaper types of ESC (the type with a linear BEC*) when the servos are stalled so the servos draw high current from the BEC and cause it to overheat. When you power up the servos you must make sure that the arms of the servo dont mechanically bind. The safest way to ensure this is to remove the arms prior to powering up. If it got hot enough to melt plastic then the ESC and possibly the servos may be damaged, give them a test when you next power up.
When setting the heli up for safety reasons you should disconnect at least two of the three ESC to motor wires to prevent accidental power up of the motor.
* Note: BEC = 'Battery Eliminator Circuit'. it's the part of the ESC that supplies low voltage power to the servos and receiver.