Ok guys, heres the story.Group of guys went flying at our local school gym.While I was hovering my 450 heli, it glitch maybe three or four different times both tail and pitch seem to react.There was only three other guys flying at the same time and we all had 2.4 TXs.Mine is a airtronics rds 8000 and never had this happen before.Would flying inside a building cause this problem, steel beams,hoops,lighting etc.Please help I'am afraid to fly this thing if this is going to happen, only last a second or so but still scary.
450 Heli glitch please help!!!!!!
- Thread starter mousie
- Start date
Tony
Staff member
Usually 2.4 is pretty good at not doing that. When I was racing cars, all I used was Airtronics, but that was back in the FM days lol.
Couple things you can so to test this. First, rebind the Rx to the Tx. You could have had a bind issue although it's unlikely. The only other thing I can think of is where you had your antenna pointing. Never point the antenna directly at the aircraft. The signal radiates out from the side of the tip. Directly off the tip is almost like a dead area. I always bend mine over and lay it to the side.
Lastly, never be scared of it. Just look for the solution and solve it. Use caution though in your next flights. Put training gear on, and see about flying in that arena again by yourself. If it happens, then you could be having an issue with the metal around there. but I would think everyone else would as well. And make sure to do some testing out in a field. I know it's cold outside, but this will give you more answers to your questions.
Hope this helps mousie. Let me know if there is anything else I can do.
Couple things you can so to test this. First, rebind the Rx to the Tx. You could have had a bind issue although it's unlikely. The only other thing I can think of is where you had your antenna pointing. Never point the antenna directly at the aircraft. The signal radiates out from the side of the tip. Directly off the tip is almost like a dead area. I always bend mine over and lay it to the side.
Lastly, never be scared of it. Just look for the solution and solve it. Use caution though in your next flights. Put training gear on, and see about flying in that arena again by yourself. If it happens, then you could be having an issue with the metal around there. but I would think everyone else would as well. And make sure to do some testing out in a field. I know it's cold outside, but this will give you more answers to your questions.
Hope this helps mousie. Let me know if there is anything else I can do.
coolgabsi
Super Mod & DEAL KING!
Well sounds like the esc to me.. Check your battery , motor temps when you get down. And check your fear meshes if they are too tight so draining more power in the start so by the end of flight you have a dancing around heli because of power loss.. I would think its the radio if you totally lost control of it or it dropped couple feet may be 10-30 feet and you had no control and them all of a sudden again it was bound and you were in control. I don't think that's what happened?
nitro208ca
Member
I have had the same prob before. The possible reason for it was that you were flying at a school.I work with a guy that is a expert ham radio guy.The GOOD possiblity is that the school had a router.The routers at schools have such a strong signal it would of interuppeted you signal for a few seconds
coolgabsi
Super Mod & DEAL KING!
may be... but spread spectrum what spektrum uses is specifically designed for having no interference (in theory), with its code divided on bands. you can noise not interference but not enough to glitch something out, you'll loose some range but i donno.. doesnt fit... .. (I am a telecom engineer... CDMA and spread spektrum is my bread and butter.. for now... 
heehee )
whatever it is.. if it got solved for him thats all that matters..
heehee )whatever it is.. if it got solved for him thats all that matters..
Ok guys I will be flying in a different school tomorrow and will see if I still have the same problem.I will chime in tomorrow to let you know if it still happens.Does the antenna really matter what way its pointing?
Ok guys,went and flew at a different school last night and did not have any glitch problems.My problem now is that I only get about 4 to 5 min of flight time and it goes down like the battery is low.I checked the voltage and still have plenty left.I did notice that the speed controller was pretty hot to the touch.Also when it goes down if I leave it set for a couple mins it seems to be okay for a few more minuets of flight.Its a forty amp speed controller.
RandyDSok
Well-Known Member
Like many issues in this hobby.. there are a lot of possibe reasons for this. So in no particular order...
On lipo's... voltage can be used for a quick indicator of the battery but it isn't an accurate way to check the battery because the voltage at rest vs under load is quite different. When you recharge the battery pay attention to how many MAH you put back into the battery. If you are close to putting back 80% or so ( it's an arbitrary number since some say a little less like 75% ) then you exhausted the pack and hit LVC.
ESC's can also limit output if they overheat... a non-contact thermometer can help diagnose these types of issues closer than testing it by touch.
On say a 1800mah battery... 4-6 minutes wouldn't be unheard of depending on what type of flying you are doing.
Cheap batteries may not hold up over time like some of the more expensive ones... in other words, you won't get as much capacity after a certain number of charge/recharge cycles. This varies a lot by brand and model. While each pack differs some in this regard, in general on the cheaper side of things, I hear very good results with GensAce ( from Nitroplanes/HobbyPartz ) with users getting hundreds of recharge cycles - on standard Turnigy, Zippy, Rhino, Gforce I'm hearing people get around 75-150 recharge cycles... recently I've also been hearing that Turnigy nano's have been getting bad reviews with under a 100 and as little as 20-30 cycles lately... On top end brands such as Thunder Power and Hyperion I almost always hear well over 200 cycles and more but with the lower cost of the GensAce rivaling these numbers I see little reason to use the higher end unless you are in competitions and can't afford to use anything but the best.
On lipo's... voltage can be used for a quick indicator of the battery but it isn't an accurate way to check the battery because the voltage at rest vs under load is quite different. When you recharge the battery pay attention to how many MAH you put back into the battery. If you are close to putting back 80% or so ( it's an arbitrary number since some say a little less like 75% ) then you exhausted the pack and hit LVC.
ESC's can also limit output if they overheat... a non-contact thermometer can help diagnose these types of issues closer than testing it by touch.
On say a 1800mah battery... 4-6 minutes wouldn't be unheard of depending on what type of flying you are doing.
Cheap batteries may not hold up over time like some of the more expensive ones... in other words, you won't get as much capacity after a certain number of charge/recharge cycles. This varies a lot by brand and model. While each pack differs some in this regard, in general on the cheaper side of things, I hear very good results with GensAce ( from Nitroplanes/HobbyPartz ) with users getting hundreds of recharge cycles - on standard Turnigy, Zippy, Rhino, Gforce I'm hearing people get around 75-150 recharge cycles... recently I've also been hearing that Turnigy nano's have been getting bad reviews with under a 100 and as little as 20-30 cycles lately... On top end brands such as Thunder Power and Hyperion I almost always hear well over 200 cycles and more but with the lower cost of the GensAce rivaling these numbers I see little reason to use the higher end unless you are in competitions and can't afford to use anything but the best.
coolgabsi
Super Mod & DEAL KING!
Umm.. I have had this issue. In my exi threads when I was starting out. I had a bad gear mesh and was pulling too much power out of the esc and that was causing a cut off. Check that for your system.
I had a horrible crash one time because of that. I was a new pilot and I slammed it in the ground. And literally had to repair almost every bit of the heli. Lol.
I had a horrible crash one time because of that. I was a new pilot and I slammed it in the ground. And literally had to repair almost every bit of the heli. Lol.
Tony
Staff member
when you spin the main gear, you will feel the motor "pop". Each pop, you should look at your gear mesh and make sure there is just a very slight amount of play. There should be 90% contact. If the mesh is too loose, it can strip the gear, and if it's too tight, it will overheat the motor due to increased amp draw. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask, that is what we are here for.