450 first spool up

murankar

Staff member
well got the exi 450 spooled up for the first time. I have video but having issues getting to the upload area of you tube. it appears it has been disabled in korea. Any how I think I may have not done something. On the second spool up I got the throttle up to (about) 45% and heard a load pop then no main blades. Though I blew a feathering shaft, felt the blades blow by my legs. appears I may have not tightened the bolts in the feathering shaft tight enough and did not use enough thread locker. I do have extra parts if all cannot be found. I hope I have extra screws for the feathering shaft if I need them. once I get into youtube I will up load video.
 

Tony

Staff member
Wow, that really sucks lol. Glad those blades didn't hit you. You can ask Paul just how bad that hurts. And it only got hit with part of a blade lmao.
 

murankar

Staff member
ya, it sucks but hey you live and learn. any how the vid is on it's way up now, almost done. I will post in video section.
 

coolgabsi

Super Mod & DEAL KING!
Did you let the loctite set for a while before going out and maidening? It's still a liquid and not a solid state if flown immediately.
 

murankar

Staff member
It did, I may not have used enough or it is a low quality product. I will reassemble and try again.
 

coolgabsi

Super Mod & DEAL KING!
Don't worry I had a mechanical failure today too. Link to blade grip came off. And book strike and heli down. Broke one blade.. Will post video but it didn't get the crash... Happens... :)
 

murankar

Staff member
My blades are still good, the screw did not break and the FS may still be fine. This is all part of the learning curve. Lesson two learned. .
 

murankar

Staff member
Had not had much time to get in here and post some details. Tonight I went ahead and rethread locked the head. Something else wanted to ask and I know its been covered here many times. Just want to see if I remember the settings. With tail wag: if the wag is fast dial down the gain and if it is slow dial up the gain. The tail was doing the funky chicken at about 47% just before the blades flew off. Right now I am at about 65 for hh mode and 35 for rate mode.


Something else I tried, after re building the heli I thought I woould see if it would go into idle up and I threw the switch before reassembly, the motor did not kick into higher rpms. I have the throttle curve set at 100 100 85 100 100. Of course I have the tx that not many people here are using, th9x. I have the normal three way switch set for the ID switch. I would also like to program the three dr switches so I have a trainer setting and a my advanced setting and then mix them to one switch any ideas?
 

coolgabsi

Super Mod & DEAL KING!
Dx6i has a dr switch setting in the setup menu. It's disabled by default. If you change that, it'll operate all from one switch. Like aileron dr rudder dr or elevator dr whatever you want. I use the same setting.

Gyro gain... If you have tail wag... Slow or fast... Gain needs to go down. No matter what. And see that you are on the "65%" selection whn maidening. I know FBL gyros wag on rate (<50%) mode, but hh mode is what you wanna be at.. (>50%)...
 

murankar

Staff member
thanks for the info. I will set the tx at 65% and go from there. Any one know of some good setting to try for the d/r option?
 

murankar

Staff member
Set the dr and expo to the lower settings, i set them to the switch off position, in the switch on position they are at full value. This tx has the switch error if any switch is in the on position. Now when I turn on the tx I am automatically in the tamed down settings. Right now it is 27* outside and don't think I will be flying anytime today outside. Maybe tomorrow I can will see. I also just re-thread locked the fs last night, it's been about 12 hours since so I think tomorrow might be better anyways.
 

murankar

Staff member
How do I fix to much play in the rudder stick? When I go left or right the stick still has more movement than the servo. The slider will reach limit before the stick does.
 

murankar

Staff member
Well, I was just in a pickle. I managed to put the flybar seesaw on upside down on the rotor head witch caused the links on the blade grips to connect on the leading edge. Had to break the head down and redo most of the head. In the process of this I noticed that the original thread lock I used (Great Planes) did not hold that well. The head had been assembled for over a week and had time to cure. When I reassembled the head I used this stuff by Zap, Z-42. It is a much darker blue and I hope it works. Now I have to wait once again till I can fly. Screw you weather (cold and lots of wind).
 

coolgabsi

Super Mod & DEAL KING!
As for your rudder.. If you have enough travel on the tail that your slider goes both ends fully ", but before your rudder reaches max on your tx, it maxes out on your heli, then you need to just dial the gyro limit down. If you don't have that option there, use the travel limits in tx..


I use z 42 too.. That stuffs good! Good they you have the head rebuilt.. You'll have more confidence now! :)
 

murankar

Staff member
Found yet another noob mistake. After much looking, thought and 1 suggestion I decided to replace the feathering shaft once again just in case it did in fact bend. I still have it until I get a chance to check for sure. While dismantling the blade grips I noticed that one side was sticking out just a bit to far. Once apart I found an extra set of closed bearing in one side and one set missing on the other. I fixed that with ease.

Next I wanted to be frugal and started stripping down the original blade grips of all that was good. In the process I managed to mount one of the old ones and noticed it was binding like mad. So I thought it was the new shaft and built another and still same thing. Then I thought I would try another grip and voila it was cured. I have since discarded all the old stuff that is worthless and kept all that was still useable. Now the heli sits as it dries and in the mean time; once the battery charges, I will shoot some stills of the final product.

After I was done with the replacement I went through and rechecked all the pitch angles. To my surprise nothing changed, 0* at mid stick and +-12*. I had to do some shortening of the swash links to get the -12* pitch, since I had more pitch than my gauge can measure; It maxes out at 12*. I also set the end points for my rudder channel, I had to go to 30% on both left and right to get rid of the play in the stick. I probably could go to 25% but want to test before I do. is there a point at witch I should not go below on end points?
 
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