450 Fbl 450 help!!!

Hey guys.

I'm in desperate need of help.

Bought a Tarot 450 PRO FBL with the Tarot ZYX-S.

Before anybody throws me off, like they do in Helifreak saying Align is best, well, I can't afford it :D

Anyway, I have built the helicopter as per the manual, everything is smooth as silk, much better than crappy Hobbyking.

Bench test to check for vibrations, non than the ordinary.

So, based on that everything is good, checked all the servos, esc, motor, battery etc, my problem is that after installing the ZYX-S and going thru the software following this video HK-450GT Flybarless Conversion - pt 4 - Radio and Software Setup - YouTube, was going for the maiden, I couldn't even bring her up.

This is my first time attempting FBL heli, so I do not know if there is a procedure to follow as, only throttle and do not touch the cyclic sticks or anything else.

Problems:
First time, heli wanted to jump, literally, jump forwad.
Second time, it wanted to go backwards.
Third time, I crashed, LOL.

So, been thru it now and fixed her, everything is good to go, except I don't have the guts to do it.

I will post a video soon, but wanted to know if you guys could give me some pointers on how to "behave" on a FBL heli.

Thanks
 

Ken Jackson

Active Member
Nothing wrong with Tarot, I started out with an EXI. I agree about HobbyKing! Sorry just don't have time for a 45 minute video. About all I can say is it shouldn't be jumping around.

Ken
 

murankar

Staff member
I have that gyro and have not had those issues. One thing I did do is add 5% to my d/r. That made it less sensitive.

Now I do have videos of my first flights on that gyro. They are linked on here. I had it on a protos mini.

Sent from my LG-E980 using Forum Runner
 

Lee

Well-Known Member
Can you spool it up without blades on the bench and see if the swashplate does anything funky?
 

Graham Lawrie

Well-Known Member
I did something similar and it was gyro reversed so it was staying on the ground. Post a video of spool up with the blades removed:)
 

cml001

Well-Known Member
Yeah I like Tarot... I use their metal stuff on my Align 450... The aluminum front tail case is awesome... Isn't that gyro the same as a 3GX.. Kinda? Not sure.. I use the 7200BX... Hope the other fellas steer I right.. I don't have a clue on this one. Sorry

- - - Updated - - -

Oh, no one here will blow u off... This is a great site/forum for help... These guys r great!
 

pvolcko

Well-Known Member
Rules about taking off with an FBL heli:

1) After plugging in power and the FBL initializing (usualy beeps and/or makes the swash dance a bit), do not touch cyclic. If you do want/need to test swash directional control prior to take off, make sure to wait a good long time to let the FBL unit return the swash to neutral and for it to bleed off the desire to pitch the heli upon take off. By good long time I mean 30-60 seconds.

2) Do not let it sit on the ground with the rotors spun up to take off speed very long. On the ground the heli does not respond to FBL unit corrections. If there is a vibration or something that is causing the FBL to interpret movement it will attempt to correct with swash changes which can and will cause it to go in an unexpected direction upon lift off. The longer you let it sit on the ground at take off speed, the more chance vibrations are going to accumulate unexpected swash corrections and result in an eventful take off. Once you start the rotors spinning, spin it up and take off with no cyclic input as quickly as possible.

3) Many suggest "popping" it off the ground as opposed to gingerly losing contact with the ground. This doesn't mean slam high collective so it jumps into the sky, it just means smoothly apply collective and get it a foot or more off the ground for take off. Don't barely hover it, dragging the skids and stuff. Again, if the heli doesn't respond to what the FBL is telling it, the FBL will dial it up to try and make it do what it wants. If the skids are dragging this will reduce response to FBL cyclic corrections and it will result in exaggerated corrections and quite possibly a tip over type crash.

4) Same goes for rudder inputs. If you want/need to test rudder control before takeoff (or if you move the heli significantly after plugging in power), program a Tx 2 or 3 position Tx switch with your normal heading hold gyro gain and the other position with an equal rate mode gain. Switch to the rate mode position and back to heading hold before spinning up. This will reset the FBL rudder control back to neutral on the rudder and should result in a non-eventful take off from the rudder perspective.

5) Make sure to have some expo programmed in on your Tx for cyclic control. I personally start off with 30% on 300 size and larger helis. For micros I use larger values of 50% to start with. Dampens things down for first flight(s) and helps avoid nervous thumbs/fingers from inducing big moves on the heli.


Of course, do the bench testing suggested above first to make sure the swash moves correctly for inputs (in the direction of stick movement) and for corrections (against movement, making the swash appear to stay level while the heli pitches around it), same on rudder controls and corrections. This testing can be done without spin up. Then do spin up (Without blades, of course) to make sure there are no obnoxoius vibrations or odd undirected swash/rudder movements.
 
Thank you guys a lot. I really appreciate it. Will do everything over again and do it correctly.

Thanks again.

This forum rocks.
 

holtneil

Active Member
Hi mate i have this fbl gyro its really good never had a problem , if you run analog servos on the head lower the gain to about 20% the default is 40% thats fine if you have digital servos , when i used this the first time i messed up with the setting , make sure the swash moves the right way to stay level as you tilt heli , also try not to use to much sub trim as you 90 the arms on the servos , as this can make swash run out of level as throttle comes up , another simple thing i found is as the servo comes with lots of arms i mixed one up so when i fitted it it as a shorter arm not by much but upset the level of the swash as it moves up throttle
 
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