General Ball Linkages

Troy Flamisch

New Member
Hi,

What is the best way to free up tight ball linkages? The ones that run from the rotor blade holders to the swash driver are way to tight. Can they be drilled or filed out slightly?
 

Troy Flamisch

New Member

Troy Flamisch

New Member
Just another question in relation to the attached photo. When i tighten the 5 bolts on the metal plate at rear of hub, which i tighten only firm, this binds the gear mesh. How do i stop this from binding? I am not over tightening i only tighten as it starts to grab. It is more prevalent on the rear bolt.
 

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Tony

Staff member
If it is binding the bear mesh, then you need to do one of two things. You either need to find a way to push the tail shaft to the left, or you need to push the front gear (still in the rear block, the one that connects to the shaft) forward. IMO, pushing that front one forward is what I would go. First thing, see if you can just push on it with it still in the tail block. If not, you will need to take the tail apart and possibly cut the lip that the outer bearing is riding on so it can go in further. Get ready for it though, the bearings are TIGHT on those gears. I always sand the gears to get a nice press fit. You can see this in a few of my build videos.
 

Troy Flamisch

New Member
If it is binding the bear mesh, then you need to do one of two things. You either need to find a way to push the tail shaft to the left, or you need to push the front gear (still in the rear block, the one that connects to the shaft) forward. IMO, pushing that front one forward is what I would go. First thing, see if you can just push on it with it still in the tail block. If not, you will need to take the tail apart and possibly cut the lip that the outer bearing is riding on so it can go in further. Get ready for it though, the bearings are TIGHT on those gears. I always sand the gears to get a nice press fit. You can see this in a few of my build videos.
Ok will have a look at this and see how I go. Thanks.
 

Troy Flamisch

New Member
lmao, I just read what I posted and saw where I called it "bear mesh". sorry about that.
Haha I knew what u meant. We don't need bear mesh in oz no grizzly just koalas.
Yeah I have watched a fair few of your vids more than once which help enormously. It won't be my last call for advice
 

Tony

Staff member
If it is on topic with this thread (ball links), you can put it here. But for future reference of other members searching questions, it is best to make a new thread with a new question. Just keeps things easier to find and less confusing for new members that don't know much about forums.
 

murankar

Staff member
Yeah the boto-sizer is probably the number one tool for the job. Be very careful with it. It will size a link real quick and its easy to over size it.
 

Troy Flamisch

New Member
No worries Troy, I look forward to your next questions.
Ok. So I removed gears and tried to work out moving the umbrella gear forward but not sure what I'm doing. By lip did u mean directly underneath the gear and if so how do I trim and keep it cylindrical? Anyway I remembered I had some align gears and replaced with them and that made a significant improvement. In photo where pencil is pointing I have some play. Can I add a washer in there to stop that and does it need to be brass, steel or doesn't matter?
 

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Tony

Staff member
As long as there is a shoulder there and you have the correct size washer, you can definitely put one there. I should have asked if they were Align gears, sorry about that. The clones are starting to make a very tight gear mesh to keep them from stripping as easy. Before, they were so loose it would just sheer off the teeth. Now, they rub so hard they melt lol. If only they could find the happy medium.

If the play that you have is a thousandths or less, I would not worry about it quite honestly. Well, with my OCD maybe I would lmao. As for the washer, it can be anything, just make sure it is only touching the inner race of the bearing and not the outer race or the tail block.
 
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