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Misc. Anodizing Parts

Discussion in 'Electronics' started by grumpy1, Dec 31, 2018.

< Lipo Internal Resistance | Ikon And Castle Governor End Limits >
  1. grumpy1

    grumpy1 I Support Rc-Help! Rc-Help Supporter

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    I've been Anodizing some of the aluminum parts I've been making , motor mount.. wheel collars etc. I've been using a battery charger as power source set on 12v 10 amp an works fine. My question is can a dual adjustable power source (voltage an amps) be used as power source. Can get one off ebay 50.00 -75.00 ,was thinking might could fine tune voltage an amps to get better finish on part, any thoughts?
     

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  2. Tony

    Tony Administrator Staff Member

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    For the best finish you should be shooting for about 1 amp per square inch. Time is going to depend on how deep you want the oxide coat. But yes, being able to adjust voltage and amperage separately is definitely a plus in doing these.
     
  3. grumpy1

    grumpy1 I Support Rc-Help! Rc-Help Supporter

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    I done the math on that test piece an it comes out to be 18.5116 sq inches that both sides an subtracting for slots an holes. With 10 amps it seemed to have good coverage I left it in the soloution for 45 minutes with 10 amps. I know the surface prep is critical, remove scratches an imperfections before Anodizing can effect the final result..my next test piece I'm gonna jewel the next one in milling machine that will deminish some if the scratches. Do .750 dia.jewel pattern with .375 overlap with .375 stagger. If you do the math it comes out to .5402 amps @ sq inch. So with amps that low per sq in what would be the tell tell signs of low amperage on finished product?
     
  4. grumpy1

    grumpy1 I Support Rc-Help! Rc-Help Supporter

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    Let me make a math correction I only took off area of holes on one side instead of both sides with new figures it comes out to be .5905 amps per sq inch..it increased amps from .5402 to .5905 per sq inch
     
  5. Tony

    Tony Administrator Staff Member

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    Wow, you are way more technical than I am with this stuff lol. I just look at a piece and say "well, it's an inch long and a half inch wide, so that is roughly 3 inches so I'll set it to 4 amps just to be safe" lmao.
     
  6. grumpy1

    grumpy1 I Support Rc-Help! Rc-Help Supporter

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    I can understand the importance of having the abality to adjust the amp output to size of part, so with fixed amp an voltage values..the only variable is time, smaller part less time compared to larger part more time. So how does adjustable voltage effect finished product? Is voltage required.... is it governed by what variable? I know from how may sq inches I've done an was ok with finish produced. But not ok on surface prepration, kinda like puttin on monokote on without any surface prep. Surface needs to be at least a semi polished condition before anadizing. If you can feel the imperfection before covering..can almost promise ya after covering you will SEE it, think same thing applies here
     
  7. Tony

    Tony Administrator Staff Member

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    It's all about uniformity when it comes to adjusting the voltage and amperage. In most cases, you don't want to use constant voltage (what a battery charger does) because it is not voltage that drops as the part is anodized, it's the current that drops. Trying to keep the current steady will result in a more uniform coating which will take more dye and look great. As you have seen, using constant voltage does work and produces some good results, but when you get a good 24v power supply and lock the voltage between 15 and 17 volts and keep your amperage steady, I think the color on your parts will have much more depth.

    Why do I have a feeling I'm about to order some supplies to do this....
     
  8. grumpy1

    grumpy1 I Support Rc-Help! Rc-Help Supporter

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    Well looks like I'm gonna have to purchase a power supply sourse. Any thoughts or input on output requirements, have found a 0-30 volt an 0-20 amp for around 200.00 on line
     
  9. Tony

    Tony Administrator Staff Member

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  10. grumpy1

    grumpy1 I Support Rc-Help! Rc-Help Supporter

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    Thanks for the vote of confidence on my mechanical an machining ability..but when it comes to electrical components I'm lost as last year's Easter egg..I forget who said it but it was here...not much at making a recipe but can follow directions well..that how I am an electronic things :duh:
     
  11. Tony

    Tony Administrator Staff Member

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  12. grumpy1

    grumpy1 I Support Rc-Help! Rc-Help Supporter

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    I just watched those..for the same 200.00 dollar budget how large a power source could be built? Here's another thought ..probably can't be done how come you couldn't purchase 2 10 amp 30 volt power source( 50.00 bucks each) an put them in series or have 2 independent circuit to vat.. Have 20 amp 60 volt source for around 125 bucks
     
  13. grumpy1

    grumpy1 I Support Rc-Help! Rc-Help Supporter

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    Looks in order for that work you shave to isolate the ground on one of them units also is that correct? You learning on an advanced curve I'm not much on electronics but not afraid to learn tho:beerchug:
     
  14. Tony

    Tony Administrator Staff Member

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    These are a little weird. If you put them in series, you would double your voltage, but your amperage will be the same at only 10 amps. If you connect them in parallel, then you would stick with 30 amps but you would have 20 amps of power. So it would either be one or the other, can't have both, unless you purchase 4 of them and wire the two series PSU's parallel into the second series PSU's. This I would not suggest since I'm not smart enough to know what could go wrong with that setup. On my PSU's you have to float one of the DC grounds so that if one PSU shorts to ground on the AC side, it doesn't energize the case on the other one. Confusing and I barely understand it, I just know mine works lol.
     
  15. grumpy1

    grumpy1 I Support Rc-Help! Rc-Help Supporter

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    Sounds kinda like degreeing in a camshaft advance for low-end but give up some on top end ...retard for top end give up some on bottom end ...what about 2 independent units still have 10 amps but 2 units in same soulation at one time have one unit on ends an one unit on sides
     
  16. Tony

    Tony Administrator Staff Member

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    I'm thinking that one PSU you were looking at might be the best answer here. Since you are wanting something that goes up to 60v (those two 30v's in series) and also wanting 20 amps (two series PSU's attached in parallel to 2 other PSU's) then you are looking at 4 total PSU's which is going to be quite large and you have to think about shorting AC to ground and what you have to do to keep it safe. I think $200 may be a good price to keep things compact and most of all, safe.
     
  17. grumpy1

    grumpy1 I Support Rc-Help! Rc-Help Supporter

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    Went ahead on got psu on the way should be here late next week...now I'm gonna try to find sq plastic 5 gallon container with a npt threads in one end an install a pvc valve to drain back into storage container. Cut container length wise . I can find a 15 gallon plastic barrel locally, but don't want to use a rounded bottom container as vat , might have go home depot or lowes an see how sturdy a plastic storage container is an install a drain with a pvc bulkhead type fitting
     
  18. Tony

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    Nice. Be sure to post some pictures of the setup when you start on it.
     
  19. grumpy1

    grumpy1 I Support Rc-Help! Rc-Help Supporter

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    :duh: what was I thinking...man one 55 gallon plastic drum will do it all...drain an a top. Cut end with threads 7 inches cut other end 3 inches long cut 2 pcs 3 inches wide cut those 2 pcs 1/2 the od. With 1.5 inch overlap on "top" bolt strip on with 1/4 -20 CS 82 degree bolts or this might work...have to do a test piece on drop might can drill an tap top an bolt on strip with same c/s bolts ..might have decrease hole size to get good threads
     
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