Power Supply's Align RCE-BL70G Set-up

[Heliman450]

Hi all, I came upon this issue along my way with a second hand T-Rex 550E V2 I bought and probably can be used as an example of what can happen when taking over the 'mistakes' made by others. For mistakes read 'other ways of thinking'. The previous owner (or possibly the builder on his behalf) decided to fit a separate BEC with power from a 2S. The positive lead was cut off to give the single power supply.

I left this as was and used it in my new installation with a Spirit Pro gyro. Now that the heli has completed a successful first hover test, I turned my attention to the ESC and found the set-up process on page 32 of the instructions. As my installation isn't the standard Align parts, I needed to find out what sequence would work to enable me to reprogramme the ESC. As the process tells one to put the Tx. collective to maximum the most obvious first step was to remove the main rotor blades to be on the safe side! So now for the problem............

The ESC won't reprogramme, it enters the set-up mode but will not step through the process as described. At the moment, I'm assuming this is due to the missing positive cable and separate power supply. This leaves the ESC locked into the currently programmed set-up.

No big worries, it does work, but if anyone can think of an alternative reason why this might be or wants to take up the challenge of working at this I'll gladly share the experience.

Bye now!

 

[Smoggie]

Phil,

Having the red wire disconnected won't stop the ESC from programming.

The Tx needs to be powered up first and throttle put at max, throttle hold must be disabled so that the transmitter is sending out a full throttle signal. You then power the receiver/FBL powered via it's own battery and BEC then finally plug in the main flight battery to the ESC. The motor should not spool, but you did the right thing in removing the blades 'just in case'!

The ESC should now enter programming mode.

Out of interest, what BEC is fitted? With this type of installation most people would just use a 2s LiFe battery feeding the FBL/receiver without a BEC. This keeps it simple and reliable.

 

[Heliman450]

Phil,

Having the red wire disconnected won't stop the ESC from programming.

The Tx needs to be powered up first and throttle put at max, throttle hold must be disabled so that the transmitter is sending out a full throttle signal. You then power the receiver/FBL powered via it's own battery and BEC then finally plug in the main flight battery to the ESC. The motor should not spool, but you did the right thing in removing the blades 'just in case'!

The ESC should now enter programming mode.

Out of interest, what BEC is fitted? With this type of installation most people would just use a 2s LiFe battery feeding the FBL/receiver without a BEC. This keeps it simple and reliable.

Hi Steve, I'm really enjoying our exchanges. Just like old fashioned pen-pals without the postman . My original thinking was also that there shouldn't be a problem and I wrote out a sequence along the lines you suggest. This seemed to be working OK until step 3 of their procedure but no further. When I get chance I'll try again, just to summarise my understanding of what you're proposing........

1. Switch on Tx. according to normal use (my Tx. has the throttle hold enabled for safety reasons)
2. Push collective to maximum position
3. Disable the throttle hold
4. Switch on power to Spirit Pro
5. Plug in the flight battery (the ESC should sound its tone for the set-up process)

This is what I already tried, so maybe I misinterpreted your proposal.

I don't use any batteries other than LiPo. I can't see any identification on the BEC but I was thinking to go directly to the Spirit Pro or use one of my 3S LiPos as it can take up to a 15V supply. The power supply possibilities of the hobby are currently my weakest area of expertise, so any help in this this direction is appreciated.

 

[Heliman450]

Hi all, following on the thread.............

I'm moving towards a straight replacement of my Align RCE-BL70G ESC combined with a new, separate BEC (I like the ability to programme the Spirit Pro without the main battery). My local model shop has a Boy 6A (6-25V) BEC unit at 32CHF making a total of 126CHF.

Is there likely to be any conflict with two supplies? I think not, provided both are set for the same voltage.

I'd like to hear some feedback on it. Thanks in anticipation.

 

[Smoggie]

6A isn't really enough for a 550, and no, you shouldn't use the stand alone BEC and the BEC in the ESC together. the voltages will never match precisely and one will try to 'back feed' the other. The usual procedure is to disconnect the red wire from the ESC if using a stand alone BEC, or simply use an 'OPTO' ESC (i.e. one that doesn't have a BEC). What most people do with a BEC is power it directly from the main flight battery thus eliminating the need of the additional battery (that's why they call them Battery Eliminator Circuits)

The options I'd be considering for a 550 are:

1. A powerful BEC with at least 10A rating such as the Castle Creations BEC Pro or Hobbywing 10A UBEC
2. Don't use a BEC at all, just use a 2s LiFe battery powering the servos direct (or a 2 cell LiPo if using HV servos).
3. Use a good quality ESC with a powerful built in BEC such as the new Hobbywing 120A V4

Any of these options will work fine but my preference would be #3 for simplicity and 'neatness'.. plus you get a top quality ESC upgrade into the bargain!

 

[Heliman450]

Hi Steve, thanks for getting back so promptly. I'm normally all for the idea of upgrading to better spec. or technology and I followed your link to the Platinum 120A V4 (also the 80A is featured). I've seen them before and they still look sssso cool! However, isn't this more to do with the rating of the installed motor? Align fit the RCM-BL600MX motor (1220KV) together with a 70Amp ESC quoted as handling bursts to 110Amps. Why the big difference?

I like the high level of programmability the Platinum features, but again is this really necessary? Align also quote a second battery to feed the Futaba electronics but don't mention disconnecting the positive wire from the ESC. Surely the possible 'back feed' of juice is prevented by diodes within the unit(s), therefore, the one giving the slightly higher output would be the main supply, the other being a back-up to give greater capacity in total?

I'm inclined towards the upgrade and accept that the power comes only from the main flight battery. I can always keep the old stuff as a temporary supply when programming the Spirit Pro on the bench.

Thanks for the feedback

 

[trainrider06]

Hi Phil, as Steve says go with option 3 of his suggestion.
I had to watch as my beloved 500 drifted too far on me because servo's froze due to power loss. This was glaringly obvious after rebuilding it, installing the Spirit Pro, and doing the servo test in the program.
Something of that size and expense is worth the better setup.

 

[Smoggie]

Phil,

Yes, 120A is probably overkill. I suggested the 120A version because I've heard of several cases where hard 3D flyers caused thermal/overcurrent shutdowns on their Trex 550's when using 80A and 90A ESC's. But I'm sure for normal sport flying or even moderate 3D the 80A would be more than acceptable.

 

[Smoggie]

PS.. if ordering from HobbywingDirect in the USA you can get a good discount using the discount code 'rchelination'.. this was working up to a few weeks ago.

 

[Heliman450]

PS.. if ordering from HobbywingDirect in the USA you can get a good discount using the discount code 'rchelination'.. this was working up to a few weeks ago.

How about this one? Close by and I can order on-line as well as visit them 1-2-1? Never mind the German, the numbers are clear enough. Looks like a good compromise at a bit less than all the other options.

RC Helistuff Switzerland - Hobbywing Regler Platinum 100A V3

 

[Smoggie]

How about this one? Close by and I can order on-line as well as visit them 1-2-1? Never mind the German, the numbers are clear enough. Looks like a good compromise at a bit less than all the other options.

RC Helistuff Switzerland - Hobbywing Regler Platinum 100A V3

Yes, that would be ideal. The new V4 has a few added features ('active freewheeling' being the biggest) but nothing that makes a huge difference, the V3 will do the job just fine. I just bought a couple of 100A HV V3 ESC's for my helis.

 

[Tony]

hobbywingdirect has to be the slowest site on the planet!!! ugh lol.