ESC Afro ESC's

Tasajara

Active Member
Well I bought 4 of these NEW AFRO ESC's. There are designed just for Multirotors by timecop and SimonK. This combination of hardware and firmware expertise will make for a great Multirotor esc.
First thing I noticed was they don't have any heat sinks.... Hummm that is different. I got mine all wired up and did a 5 min hover and they were just a little warm if any at all.
These went on my xRotor IFrame FPV Quad. I also bought Switch-mode BEC 5V/6V 3A, Max 5A Low RF Noise UBEC from eBay to go on this quad. Guess you may be thinking why I bought this when you can power the Control board and RX from one ESC.
I have been doing a reading and have found some cool info and a few test to bring me to this upgrade.
Take an esc, powered by 3s battery to get 5 volts out to power these items it has to drop some of this voltage. Thus making a little heat. And we know what heat does.... limit current flow.
Now that we are heating up just one esc to power all my controls. This in turn will slow the RPM on this esc, Making an imbalance. Now my control board has to correct for the slower motor.
In comes the Switch-mode UBEC, now I power the controls from the switching UBEC, thus freeing up the one esc to just power the motor. Now I can pull the last red wire so none of the
esc's have any extra load other than controlling the motor. Also if you have extra add on's like GPS ect the UBEC will work much better. The one I got has a metal shield to protect from extra RF freq.
And it being a switching type it want build up heat like a linear type does.

Here is a quote from Jesolins....On a well know forum on why not to use the esc bec.
"Specifics:
Sure you can do that but it is not a multicopter best practice for reliability...so by leaving your ESC 5v BECs connected you will also get:
1. Extra Vcc noise to your flight controllers potentially causing inaccuracies and failure.
2. ESC BECs heating up dissimilarly causing variations in ESC response such as oscillations and TBE.
3. Possibly even more EMF to cause your compass and GPS if fitted to provide erroneous data.
4. High quality ESC's that are being designed specifically for multicopters would not have BECs on them. We will then no longer have to make do with ESC's that are designed for aircraft and Helicopter use"

Here is the test I ran across about the heating up of an esc causing less rpm's
High ESC temp reduces power

Ok enough for why I swapped to the UBEC... so time will tell if this upgrade will make my flights even smoother..... I really hope so..:friendly_wink:

Here are a few pics of the esc and ubec I installed.
Afroesc.jpgAfro ESC.jpgAfro esc mounted.jpg

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Oh yeah it does fly very smooth, will have to do an FPV flight to get a good feel on this upgrade

Afroesc.jpg

Afro ESC.jpg

Afro esc mounted.jpg
 
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Stambo

Well-Known Member
I have a friend who bought some of these, still waiting for him to finish his build to see what the verdict is.
I too was surprised by the lack of heatsinks.
 

Karubah

Member
Thanks for posting this about the Esc s and bec. I have just ordered 12 of the Afro 30amp Esc s as myself and 3 others are going to build 4 tricopter s on the cheap. I have often thought that by using only one bec might cause an imbalance in power to the motors. Now to add a few becs to the order from HK. Cheers
 

Tasajara

Active Member
Your welcome.... It would put even more load on a Tri copter having to pivot the tail servo for yaw.
So a UBEC would be a must for my next Tri.
 

Tasajara

Active Member
I got to try out my Afro ESC's today .... all I can say is they worked GREAT !!!
We had a high of 92° and they never even got warm. The motors were just a little warm, but not the esc .
That really surprised me being that they don't even have heat sinks.
The other thing was I got close to 45 sec to 1 min longer flight times... WoooHooo
I did notice the Quad seemed to have better control.
So if you are looking for a good MultiRotor ESC I can't think of a better one to buy.
I have four more going on my Tarot 650 IronMan quad I am building.
 
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Karubah

Member
Good to hear they work well and with a bit longer flight time to boot. Looking forward to when mine turn up for the tri.
 

Tasajara

Active Member
Yep they do see to be much better, I have had three diferent flashed esc's and I do like these the best.

LOL they are Simonk Flashed... But it is not a airplane ESC just flashed to work better for Multirotor.
All the hardware layout is a new design designed By timecop and SimonK from the ground up for multirotor use..
Not a rehash of an airplane esc.

Any speed control that can fly a multirotor in 92° heat and not get hot without a heat shink has to be different...
 

wolfman76

Well-Known Member
hey craig was wondering if the 30 amp escs are ok to use with 1000kv motors on 4s setup???? and what size prop you recommend???

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hey craig was wondering if the 30 amp escs are ok to use with 1000kv motors on 4s setup???? and what size prop you recommend??? or should i use a 20 amp afro esc??? THANKS
 

wolfman76

Well-Known Member
Sweet good deal i will pick up one when i purchase the escs.... Thanks allot Craig. .. should i get the usb programmer also for the escs?
 

Tasajara

Active Member
Sure if you like, it will just let you update them down the road if you want. I didn't get one, but so far they work great.
I have not seen any reason to up grade right now. But if they update the firmware I will order one then.
 

wolfman76

Well-Known Member
oh ok cool thannks craig will order one for future use just to i will have it when i need it and will pick up one of those testers also..
 

jflynn12

New Member
I am starting my first tricopter build. I already have the Sunnysky 2216 800kv motors and plan to use the KK2.1 board. Also, am in the process of selecting the ESCs. I would like to use the AFRO 20 amp slimline ESCs, but I don't fully understand how to use a separate BEC (the AFRO 20 amp slimline doesn't have a BEC). I understand the BEC provides 5 v power to the KK2.1 board and the receiver, but I don't understand exactly how it is wired up. Would you please provide some pictures or detailed instructions on how to wire in the separate BEC? Thanks.

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I forgot the mention powering the tail servo, which I guess also has to be powered by the separate BEC.
 

Karubah

Member
GDay mate, the Afro ESC will supply power to the RX and the board from motor No 1. Hook your bec into the No5 output pin from the board to supply power to your tail servo.. Just one other thought I would be using 30 amp ESC s on the Tri. If it is over 350 size. I hope this helps , cheers

Update. your bec is powered from your main battery.
 
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Sandmann

New Member
I am starting my first tricopter build. I already have the Sunnysky 2216 800kv motors and plan to use the KK2.1 board. Also, am in the process of selecting the ESCs. I would like to use the AFRO 20 amp slimline ESCs, but I don't fully understand how to use a separate BEC (the AFRO 20 amp slimline doesn't have a BEC). I understand the BEC provides 5 v power to the KK2.1 board and the receiver, but I don't understand exactly how it is wired up. Would you please provide some pictures or detailed instructions on how to wire in the separate BEC? Thanks.

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I forgot the mention powering the tail servo, which I guess also has to be powered by the separate BEC.

Heya..

Wow, my first post on here. How about that. Anyway... I'm in the planning stages of my first tricopter build too - planning on using the Titan frame from Fortis Airframes and the KK2.1 board with (probably) NTM Prop Drive Series 28-26A 1200kv/286w motors and the 30A Afro ESC's. I considered using the ESC's built in BEC for the tail servo but changed my mind and decided to use a separate BEC. I had to draw up a simple wiring diagram to help me visualise how it'll all go together so maybe it'll help you too (if I can figure out how to do an attachment here). Like I said this is my first tricopter - I've built & flown lots of planes but mostly glow, I'm pretty sure this is right but I'm open to corrections from those more knowledgeable. Also, I haven't included any switches in the diagram. You'll notice the power (red) wires are cut from the Flight Control Board (FCB) two of the ESC's and to the tail servo. This is because the ESC on the M1 connection is supplying the FCB and the RX with power and I understand that the other two ESC's built in BEC's shouldn't be connected. The servo is being supplied by power from the BEC. You don't actually have to use a Power Distribution board (PDB), you just just use those splitter cables that HK sell - I just put that in the diagram for simplicity.

Anyway, I'm pretty sure this'll work... hope it helps you figure it out.

Matt

Tricopter-wiring.jpg
 

Tony

Staff member
If ESC 1 is putting out voltage to the RX, then you won't need that BEC. Now, if the ESC's are all OPTO's, then yes, you will need the BEC. But, just running one servo, just about any ESC out there should provide power for that.
 

Sandmann

New Member
Hey Tony.

Normally I'd agree with you but those Afro ESC's have a maximum of 0.5A output on their built-in BEC's, hence the external one. The Afro's are designed for quads etc that only need the RX and FCB powered up, but not really for tricopters that also require a servo. It's also useful if you want to run anything else (I'm thinking of putting LED's on mine for night flight so I'll be getting a BEC with an Aux switch input).
 

Tony

Staff member
Ah, right on lol. Can you tell I'm not a Tri/Quad guy hahaha. Thanks for the clarification on the output.
 
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