Servos 90 Degree Servo

Is there any trick to get exactly 90 degrees servo on a servo?I tried my best with sub trimming but im never 100% sure that it's 90 degrees and its been making adjusting the swash difficult.That brings up another question.If the manual says that the rod should be so and so long from center to center of the ball links why do u still have to adjust it?Is the ,manufacturing process no perfect because no matter what i do i can never get a perfect mechanical setup on my swash.As soon as i get zero pitch when the blade is in the front and i turn it to the back its like 4 degrees positive.
 
okay so your tutorial cleared up a lot for me but what about when you turn the blades?Say your get zero pitch on the front blade but 4 degrees on the back?I'm guessing that has to do with me not having a level swash as i do not have a swash leveling tool. Also do you also have a guide for setting the tail rod correctly?When i first installed it, the servo pushed the rod too far to where it would bend and pull to much on the arm of the tail.
 

murankar

Staff member
Normally that's going to deal with blade tracking. Individual blade pitch will need to be adjusted so each blade reads 0° pitch. Then you will need to hover it (or really light on the skids) and observe the rotor disk for what appears to be two blades it will look similar to this > or < depending on what side you look on.

Its best to mark one blade with some kind of color. I normally use red dry erase marker on one tip. My tips are white so it makes for good contrast. Tony also make tracking tape and sells it.

Align does a good job of giving you linkage lengths. Just follow the instructions on that. Also during your gyro setup you should be able to set end points. When you do that make sure there is no binding on the tail I'm both directions.
 
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I used the measurement that were in the manual but it didnt work.As in it didnt turn out 0 degrees pitch and +11 and -11 so i wont use them any more.Also are travel limits the same thing as endpoints?I got the rod not to over push and over pull by adjusting the travel limits for the tail servo.Can you also explain more about blade tracking?Whats it used for?
 

Tony

Staff member
How were you measuring the links? If you are doing it from inside to inside, or outside to outside, those can become inaccurate. The best way to do it is to measure from the center of the hole, to the center of the other hole. The 3 swash links should be the exact same, the blade grip links should also be the exact same. Marius' writeup is a great one. It takes a couple hours to completely setup the head, but I assure you it's all worth it in the end.

I do apologize for the forum being down for so long. We ran into major complications. If you notice anything that's wrong, let me know and I will do my best to fix it.
 
Well since i followed your build videos(which were very helpful by the way and probably saved me from braking something) i measured from center to center which wasn't exactly easy.It didn't turn out how yours did basically all perfectly set up from the start so then i redid all the rods using the other measurements which also didn't work.I may actually be doing things fine just to get her in the air but since i have a digital pitch gauge and not the traditional one it shows me everything to the .1 of a degree.So basically I see that I have a degree of positive and then i try to adjust it and it just messes everything up.I'm gonna redo the entire swash plate assembly once i get a swash level tool.You didn't have one though Tony,Right?How come you can build it and its setup perfectly and mines all outta whack.
 

Tony

Staff member
Thanks, and no, it's not easy to do the links as I did. But, i have found that nothing is easy on these things lmao.

And no, I don't own a swash leveling tool. All of my heli's have been done by eye, or by the Zip Tie trick. By eye is fine if you have a flybar (which you don't). With a flybar, you can use trim to help level out the heli. On a flybarless heli, you do NOT want to use any trim so a perfectly level swash is key. URI has a great video on it that you can see below. If your zip tie is way above the swash, you can CA a small piece onto it that will go down and touch the arms of the swash. But if you have the tool on the way, that's the best option.

And there is a LOT that I don't put on video. There is a LOT of cussing and wanting to hit these things with a cricket bat lmao. But, I edit all of that out.

http://youtu.be/p6Ra0rRZ-Fc
 

Derek

Well-Known Member
There are alot of "school" words that I know and use.

My wife was absolutely clueless when I used the word, "lethargic." She stopped dead in her tracks and just looked at me. Then she says, "What does that mean?" She had never heard that word before, lol. I use that word to describe a few of my ex-girlfriends, lol.
 

Tony

Staff member
Lethargic, contemplating, procrastinating, thread jacking... wait... I guess we did hahaha.
 

Derek

Well-Known Member
Here...try this one...

pulchritudinous

I did not copy/paste this word. This is a real word and it's funny to see people's faces when you say this word.

Simply put, it means "beauty"
 
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