Power Supply's 1000w Power Supply Using 2 Dps-600pb, Affordable, Dependable, Powerful!!

coolgabsi

Super Mod & DEAL KING!
coolgabsi submitted a new Article:

1000w Power Supply Using 2 Dps-600pb, Affordable, Dependable, Powerful!!

OK so here is why I didn’t do this earlier < INSERT EXCUSE HERE> :p heehee

So.. Here is the mod for making DPS-600PB into a very reliable , compact and powerful power supply, for a fraction of the price of what you find in the market for the same (/similar) specs and reliability.

Each power supply is rated at 12V 47A ~~575W .

I was looking for getting 24V out, so I could hook a good size charger to it and charge a lot of my small, or few Big batteries all together. So I connected these power supplies in series. It is a very simple mod. BUT the power supplies are commercial grade, they are intricate pieces of electronics which are not only powerful but also VERY dangerous for someone who doesn’t know what they are doing, and the capacitors alone inside these power supplies CAN KILL you on shorting.

SO….

RC-HELP.com or I shall not be held responsible for any damage of life or property that happens due to this post to the user. This is only intended for experimental purposes, and if you do not know what you are doing, or are not sure about anything, PLEASE DONOT DO THIS, this is DANGEROUS stuff..


Alright! Let’s get on with the good stuff!!!

You will need:

Servo connector
12 gauge or higher wires (preferably color coded)
Soldering equipment
Phillips head screw driver
Wire cutters
Heat shrink
Multi-meter
Basic Electronics Knowledge (Don’t have to be a Scientist.. it’s easy stuff :D)
Bullet connectors (or banana whichever you may prefer)

Alright this is what the supplies look like:

View attachment 8380

See the 12 pins in the middle of the connectors on either side ? That’s where the magic is to turn these on. And to control fan speed… This is what each pin does (as far as I know):

PIN ------------ What it Does
1----------------- +5VSB
2----------------- +5V
3----------------- +5VSB
4----------------- Controls fan speed
5----------------- -12V
6----------------- PsKill
7----------------- not sure
8----------------- Ground
9----------------- Voltage Adjust
10---------------- PsOn
11---------------- Current Share
12---------------- not sure what this one does

And this is my drawing of the front face of the supplies, with required connections (my drawings are not pretty.. but that’s not what they are there for.. :D they are for information. So bear with.. )

View attachment 8381


So as you see to turn on the power supply we are shorting pins: 6 8 and 10

8 being ground, we are tying PsKill and PsON to Ground. This will turn your power supply ON and if you put the multimeter across the two terminals on either side, you should read 12V or may be even 12.9V out.

You can turn these power supplies on without a load, and they will work just fine. As you will notice, turning the power supply on (on AC), the fans will Idle.. not that loud.. as soon as you do this mod, the fans will SCREAM as the power supply is now supplying 12V and expecting a current draw.

To turn those fans speed down to idle-ing speed, you can short Pin 4 to ground. Which if your power supply is on you can short 4 to 6 , 8 , or 10 whichever is convenient.

Now the questions is, how to best do this mod?

EASIEST way to do it is: SERVO Connector. The wires are spaced JUST right, to where the pins 6-8-10 are a tight fit but a FIT no matter what. You will stress one pin on either end a little, but once servo connector is in, you can just use the AC wall socket to turn these ON and OFF…. So take the servo adapter, strip the three wires and solder joint them all together to create a short and just insert it in. WHOALLA! Your Power supply is ON.

View attachment 8384


Solder the connectors onto your wires, and wires onto the blades on either side of the 12 pins keeping in mind polarity… and you are done..

Now is the next part. If you are happy with 12V 47A and 575W .. you can STOP RIGHT HERE. If you need say 24V 47A like me (~1000W) .. then:

Do this Power ON (and optionally the Fan mod) mod to the second power supply too. Test that the supply is spitting out 12V on the terminal blades… and then..

DC Ground - AC ground Isolation:


Why is it needed: DC ground on these power supplies is tied to the AC Ground. (try checking continuity between DC ground and AC ground pin or the body) So if you are running two simultaneously .. in Parallel or in Series, they cant touch.. Cause the DC potential being different on both, the metal bodies ( AC Ground) will be on two different potentials and if they touch … PZZZZZZZZZZT!! Sparks fly! :D

So we Isolate one of the power supplies’ Body from DC OR AC Ground

Isolating one power supply’s metal body from AC Ground: Remove the AC ground pin from the back one of the power supplies (preferably 12-24V (Power supply No.2) .. Fast .. Easy.. Non Intrusive.. BUT you are left with a power supply whose AC supply is not grounded so better hope there aren’t any AC leaks due to a malfunction.. That will be dangerous to YOU.. if you touched it. I DONOT PREFER THIS METHOD for that very reason

Isolating one power supply’s metal body from DC ground: intrusive procedure, not as easy, Dangerous for the one time you are doing it, and needs a lot more precaution.. But in the end is all worth it! I prefer this..!!! I did this.. Follow the instructions.. They aren’t hard.. Just be careful..

Open the power supply, with your Phillips head screw driver. If you don’t know how to take this apart.. you probably shouldn’t be doing this at all. (For your safety)
Once you open it.. the main circuitry we are concerned about is standing vertically on the side panel.. Here is Pic of what you need to look for and what you need to do :

View attachment 8382


Once you do this… Go ahead and check your continuity between the (-ve terminal DC (black)) and the AC ground… and the body..
If done.. Close it up just like its supposed to.. and step back … :D and turn it up… You should still be getting 12V out of the supply if you have the servo lead (TURN ON Mod) in there.. and NOW you are ready hook these power supplies in series, and power them on.. :D
And now that you have done this mod.. They can touch.. You can even make it look all pretty but covering the two together in BIG heat shrink or MONOKOTE.. and you will have a sleek and awesome power supply.. or leave it like I did.

Here is what the last product looks like on drawings. :D

View attachment 8383


And here is pic from my table :D

View attachment 8385
View attachment 8386

ENJOY! :D

Hope this helps my friends! :D

Cost me a total of 50 bucks TOTAL (for two supplies and stuff shipped to me) with all connectors and wires and such. Add a couple of hours work.


{You can buy these pre-made by Hobby shops or sellers online for an average of 45-55 bucks EACH modded, soldered and ready plus shipping.. Two with shipping comes to about 130 bucks... if you cant mod this, you can buy them premade.. :) .. So there is hope for everyone.. }

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ChevyDawg

New Member
Hey i just got them ordered off ebay, after i ordered i noticed what i bought was a dps 600pb b anyone know if there is a huge difference between a pb and a pb b?
 

Tony

Staff member
I don't think there is much of any difference between the two. But not 100% sure.
 

dhudspith

New Member
Just wanted to say "Thanks" for this article as well as the YouTube video. I don't need 1000watts yet, but I saved a ton of money and am confident I've got all the power I need for the near future and far!

-Dave
 

Tony

Staff member
It's our pleasure! Gaba started this with this article, and I purchased them and did the video. Still using this setup today! Works like a charm with the iCharger 306b!
 

ruudxd

New Member
Thanks for the awesome write up!
I have a question, I converted one of my power supply's to not have a DC ground ( so snip the two wires and remove the scew, and insolate the part ) but now the previeus owner of the set says he has done that mod also, but on the other power supply.
Is this dangerus?
What can happen if I have no DC gorund, wich is the case now?
Is the AC ground then also disabled?

Thanks!
 

ChevyDawg

New Member
As long as you have three pins where the wall cord plugs into the dps600 on both units you will have an ac ground, this is "needed" desired or "good to have" because the supplys have metal cases, some people choose to cut the ac ground pin INSTEAD of isolating the dc ground to the internal board, not the best way or reccomended, but to answer your question, having the dc ground isolated in BoTH supplys is going to be just fine! No ill effect unless your lazzy like me and like using the metal case as a 12v ground instead of plugging in your wires:)!

- - - Updated - - -

If you plug in your setup and use your multimeter, you should get 25v+- ...on a setup with only one isolated board you will still get 25v+- BUT you ALSO get 12v if you go from the + of the first supply to the case of the non floated supply, you wont be able to do this if both supplys are floated, most people would never need this feature but im lazzy and like to have quick access to 12v for bench testing auto parts and such
 

ruudxd

New Member
Hello,

Thanks for your reply!
I have regrounded one of the power supplys just for my own feeling, it feels saver.
Offcourse I did not cut the ground wire on the AC side, I like my workspace :)

Thanks again!

Ruud

As long as you have three pins where the wall cord plugs into the dps600 on both units you will have an ac ground, this is "needed" desired or "good to have" because the supplys have metal cases, some people choose to cut the ac ground pin INSTEAD of isolating the dc ground to the internal board, not the best way or reccomended, but to answer your question, having the dc ground isolated in BoTH supplys is going to be just fine! No ill effect unless your lazzy like me and like using the metal case as a 12v ground instead of plugging in your wires:)!

- - - Updated - - -

If you plug in your setup and use your multimeter, you should get 25v+- ...on a setup with only one isolated board you will still get 25v+- BUT you ALSO get 12v if you go from the + of the first supply to the case of the non floated supply, you wont be able to do this if both supplys are floated, most people would never need this feature but im lazzy and like to have quick access to 12v for bench testing auto parts and such
 
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