450 Trex 470l Servo Balls On Outer Hole

So I could not get past the purple light on menu L in my microbeast with the balls mounted in the inner (suggested) hole. I moved the balls to the outer hole of the servo horn now I am in the red (very close to blue) before binding. I am happy with that, but was wondering if mounting them on the outer holes will cause any issues?

Are we talking on the blade grips? If so, that will affect overall pitch. Since it is further out, you will get more precise movement, however you will not be able to achieve the same throw as you would on the inner hole. Think Fulcrum.

Im talking about the outer hole on the Swash plate servo horn arm. When I get to menu L (servo limit). I cannot get past the purple light before the linkage arms hit the servos (in negative collective) also at full positive collective the elevator servo arm hits the top bearing support. Im a very docile beginner flyer but its Super frustrating because the microbeast will not be effective if I have to hit bailout because the throw is super limited.

The blinky multi-coloured lights of the Microbeast are a cryptic mystery to me It seems very strange that the FBL that comes with the kit doesnt work with the recommended servo ball positions? Having said that, having the balls on the outer holes of the servo arms shouldn't cause any significant adverse effects.


PS.. when you say 'before binding'.. are you trying to set maximum pitch by the mechanical limit before binding occurs? That could be the problem. You shouldn't be using more than about 13 deg collective pitch.

Another aspect to think of with the ball links is mechanical advantage. This will effect your gains in the FBL unit.

Gaui did something with the X3 that had not seen before. They made the blade grip arms with 3 positions for the ball links. This was to give the pilot the ability to adjust the responsiveness of the kit. The inner position made the kit more docile while the other position made it more responsive. I set mine up in the middle, which is the standard response.

List something to think about.

I ended up using the outer most hole of the servo horn. Seems I cannot find any nice metal aftermarket horns for the ds450m servos. When the balls were mounted on the inner hole I could not get past the purple light on servo limit menu L. I could not settle for such poor rotor head geometry. The travel was so minimal before striking the servo case (due to the balls being inboard). I have not preflighted it yet so hopefully it will be okay.

The only thing I know about the swashplate links is that when the servo horns are at mid stick the swashplate links are supposed to be at 90 degrees to the servo horns. The servo horns are supposed to be perpendicular to the servos and at mid stick and the links are supposed to be perpendicular to the servo horns..

It shouldn’t be about inner hole/outer hole, it should be about which hole gets the swashplate links 90 degrees to the servo horns at mid stick.. if the middle hole gets the swashplate links at 90 degrees then use the middle hole.. it’s about getting 90 degrees..

To get the servo horns perpendicular to the servos then we add sub trim..

You’re on the right website to get your questions answered legitimately..

I already have the servo horns at a perfect 90 to the servo body per sub trim. On the outer hole of the servo horn the Swash linkage to servo horn relationship is 90. Definitely was not a 90 on the inner hole so you made me more comfortable about this setup! I just hate going against manufacturer recommendations because the align manual says use the inner hole.

On the BX, I don't think I have ever achieved a perfect setup on the lights lol. I always just get it as close as I can by setting it to 6º and go past that menu. I have never seen any adverse affects from this, but just be careful on your first few flights.

Yup, you’re doing it right.. keep moving forward.. I’d respond to your other thread but I don’t know much about the Microbeast V5

I would like to say one stay away from metal servo arms unless they are designed to "break away".

Second double check your linkages. They may not be what they should be.

Third what's supposed to happen as smoggie said, first you 90 degree the arms mechanically first, then in the FBL unit trim it to 90 if needed. Next, your swash should be close to mid travel on the main shaft.

Fourth, check the link geometry on the swash, if it's not what you want you may need to adjust the servo to swash links.

Fifth, check blade pitch at miss stick. At this point you need to make sure your as close to zero degrees as possible. You maybe out by a tenth or so. Do not worry about the few thenths of a degree.

If all of that looks good then go and set 6°. As Tony said not everyone is going to get 6°.